Sleeve construction



Aug. 12, 1952 Filed March 15, 1950 A. O. GILPIN ET AL SLEEVECONSTRUCTION 2 SHEETS--SHEET l INVEN 03s fllf'red 0. G1, pan

E. gill min 6m @M ATTORN EYS Aug. 12, 1952 N ETAL SLEEVE CONSTRUCTION 2SHEETS-SHEET 2 Filed March 15, 1950 N O .fllfzed' bi l 21,2 Hermineyzlppn Patented Aug. 12, 1952 UNITED? sheave. "CONSTRUCTION Alfred 0.Gilpinand Herinine Eugenie Gilpin,

New York, N. Y.

Application March 15, 1950, Serial No. 149,810.

4 Claims.

The invention relates to an upper garment construction, moreparticularly a sleeve and body construction permitting freedom of armmove-- ment for use in a shirt, blouse, jacket or the like.

A garment worn by a person engaged in athletic activity should be looseand comfortable when the arms are swung about or when the body iscontorted, but such requirements generally run counter to the elementsof attractiveness, neatness and simplicity of construction.

Accordingly it vis amo-ng'the objects of the invention to provide agarment with, simplified sleeve construction which permits g-reatfreedom of movement. Another object is toprovide a comfortable jacketsuitable for athletics which is attractively styled and economical-toproduce, and which has a sleeve construction with a single over arm seamso that there is no binding or limtation on arm movement. Another objectof the invention is to provide such construction with such freedom ofmovement which retaining a neat and close fitting appearance when thearms are in recline. A still further object is to simplify the designand assembly of a long-sleeve garment. 1 These and other objects will beapparent from the description which follows.

The invention accordingly consists'in the features of construction,combinations of elements, arrangements of parts andrelation and order ofeach of the same to one or more of the others,

all as will be illustratively described herein, and the scope of theapplication of which will be indicated in the claims.

In the drawings:

'Fig. l is, a pattern for .the back piece and in.- tegral sleeveportions of the. garment;

Fig. .2 is a pattern for the right front piece of the garment; I

Fig. 3 is a pattern for the left front piece of the garment;

Fig. 4 is a front view of a modelled jacket; and Fig. 5 is a rear viewof the jacket shown in Fig. 4.

Similar reference characters refer to similar parts throughout theseveral views of the drawings. In the illustrative embodiment of thepresent invention, a three-piece pattern is used to make a waist lengthjacket having free-swing sleeve construction. The jacket is assembledfrom a left front piece, a right front piece, and

an integral back and sleeve piece. Each front piece covers the portionof the body from the center to the side and from the shoulder to the.waist, and has arcuate sections cut out for the collar and for a frontarm hole seam. The sleeve and back portions are'integral and-are cutfrom one piece of cloth. A concave section at the top forms the backhalf of the neck of the garment, while each side is flanked by a sleevesection cut on a broad, arcuate line to define sleeve seams.- The loweredge of the body portion is shaped with slight concave curvature toestablish the rear half of the waist, and a straight edge is provided ateach side which, when stitched to similar edges of the front pieces,complete the garment around the body portion.

A sleeve portion extends from each side of the body portion, and isparticularly shaped to create a completed sleeve except for certaindesirable trimmings. The inner edge is curved to meet the arcuatesection for the arm hole seam of the front piece, and the lower edge iscurved to meet the upper arcuate line of the sleeve section in astraight line seam over the shoulder and down the length of thearm. Whenstitched accordingly, an underarm seam is eliminated due to the cutofthe pattern, and the only seams are those over each arm from theshoulder to the cuff and those in front of the arm holes along thhesides from the shoulders to the waist, leaving seamless the entireunderarm area. Consequently a complete bias underarm drape is providedwith the textile material folding neatly against the wearers side andresulting in freedom of shoulder action, comfort, and ease of fit. j I

. A dart may be taken on the back for a few inches from each shoulderseam to improve the fit {but these ,do not interfere with the freedom ofaction), and the usual trimmings are added order to complete :a dressygarment. The two front pieces are buttoned together, and a knittedribbing is attached as a waist band. Cuffs anda collar are also. added,and a breast pocket is located in each front piece. The finishedgarment" is not only attractive and well fitted to the body, but is verycomfortable and allows complete freedom of action through the shoulderand .arm portions, and the slack material'which is :providedby the fullcut and absence of an under-arm seam drapes in place along the side andpresents a neat appearance to both the front-and the back.

Referring to the'drawinga-a out It) for back portion I2 and integralsleeve-portions I4 and I5 is shown unfolded in oneplane in Fig. 1 withthe inside f-acing'up. Back portion 12 hasarched edges l6a for thecollar and 18a for the waist, and s-traight'sides 29a and 22a. A cut 124for theright front piece is shown inFig. .2 with the outside up, and isshaped with edges 15b for the collar, l-8b for the Waist, and 26b forthe side. Cut is fits directly over the left half of "back'po'rtionfiFig. l so that edges its and 201) may be stitched-together to define theside of the-garment, and so thattop edge 25b of right front out 24'rnay'bestitched as a shoulder seam along edge section 26a. Cut 28 (Fig.3) for the left front portion is the counterpart of cut 25 illustratedin Figs. 4 and 5 is completed, but f various trimmings.

Sleeve portions l4 and [5 are shaped with long, arcuate edges 32 and 34respectively, straight ends 36 and 38 respectively to which cuffs may beafiixed, and lower edges 40 and 42 which the collar and waist bands,straight side portions, top and bottom arcuate portions for each sleevediverge from edges 32 and 34 to provide substantial fullness in thelower sections. Edge 44a of sleeve portion [4 is specially shapedbetween edges 40 and 20a to meet edge 44b of right front piece 24 on aspherical curvature to create a seam 48 (Fig. 4). A similar edge 46astitches to edge 460 of left front piece 28 for a like seam 50. Thefinal operations to complete the jacket are stitching together edges 40and 32 as seam 52 (Fig. 4) for the right sleeve, and joining edges 42and 34 as seam 54 (Fig. 5) for the left sleeve. The basic constructionof the finished jacket is accordingly very simple, because only twoseams are required on each side, viz. seams 52 and 54 from cuff tocollar, and seams 48 and 50 from the shoulders down the front and sidesto the waist band.

Several trimming features are usually added to complete a garmentaccording to the above basic construction, as for instance inmanufacturing the sports jacket illustrated in Figs. 4 and 5 it isdesirable to attach cuffs, a collar, a constructed waist band, breastpockets, and some means of fastening together front pieces 24 and 28, asby buttons. The back drape and appearance are improved by use of twoshort darts 56 (Fig. 5) which are shown by dotted lines in Fig. 1.

The simplified jacket construction above described eliminates anybinding or restriction in the movement of the shoulders or arms, byvirtue both of the fullness and lack of seams on the underside of thesleeve. The sleeve is large and full next to the shoulder and tapersuniformly toward the wrist, as shown by the outstretched arm in Figs. 4and 5. Excessive fullness is featured for complete comfort, so thatfolds 58 of reserve material are present even when the arm is extended(Fig. 5), and yet a trim appearance is presented, as shown around thelowered right arm in Figs. 4 and 5, because the cut and stitching alongthe front and down each side cause the puffed section of the sleeve tofold and drape attractively along the side under the arm.

The novel features of the invention need not be limited to use on abuttoned jacket, for any sleeved garment which covers the waist may besimilarly constructed. In addition, by consolidating front pieces 24 and28 and enlarging the neck portion, a pull-over shirt or like garmentcould be manufactured along the same lines.

As many possible embodiments may be made of the above invention, and asmany changes might be made in the embodiment above set forth, it is tobe understood that all matter here- 'inabove set forth or shown in theaccompanying posed on the front side of said garment and down the sidesfrom the shoulders to the waist and with seams on the top side of eacharm from the shoulder to the cuff, whereby the arms of the wearer may bemoved in any direction without binding of the garment at the shoulders.

' 2. A garment of the character described, comprising a back and sleevepiece, a left front piece, and a right front piece, said back and sleevepiece being defined when flat by curved portions for which convergetoward the cuff and which are curved to define when stitched as a sleevea straight line seam over the shoulder and arm of the garment, straightsided cuff portions, and reverse curved portions between said bottomarcuate portions and said straight sides, and each of said front piecesbeing defined when flat by curved collar and waist portions, straightedges which join as the front of the garment, straight sides to fit saidstraight side portions of said back and sleeve piece, straight shoulderportions, and curved arm hole portions, the curvatures of said arm holeportions and said reverse curved portions being such as to define a lineon a spherical surface when stitched together.

3. A pattern for the back and sleeves of a garment comprising a backportion having a small arcuate section at the top to define the rearhalf of a collar, a larger arcuate section across the bottom to definethe rear half of a waist band, and straight side sections diverging fromeach end of said larger arcuate section, and a sleeve portion, on eachside of said back portion and integral therewith, each of said sleeveportions having a long concave arcuate section at the top, a straightend section for a cuff, a long convex arcuate section along the bottomwhich diverges from said long concave arcuate section toward said backportion, and a section joining the terminus of said long convex arcuatesection with said straight end section at about the center thereof andhaving such curvature as to define a line on a spherical surface whenstitched to a suitable front piece for said garment, the curvature ofsaid long sections being such that a straight line seam over theshoulder and arm is formed on stitching together the two edges.

4. In a garment, a sleeve construction comprising a top portion shapedto fit closely over the arm and shoulder of the wearer, and an underarmdrape portion which tapers from the cuff of the sleeve to a point on theside of said garment approximately half-way between the shoulder and thewaist of said garment, both of said portions being part of a singlepiece of material so cut as to provide a single longitudinal seamlocated substantially on the top side of said sleeve and running fromthe cuff to the shoulder section thereof.

ALFRED O. GILPLN. HERMINE EUGENIE GILPIN.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file ofthis patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 958,977 Shotland May 24, 19102,390,188 Sholder Dec. 4, 1945 2,441,909 Seelye May 18, 1948

